Mars and Venus of Cyprus Surprised by Vulcan (1827) by Alexandre Charles Guillemot
Created by : Olivier Polge and Jean-Christophe Hérault
Date : 2014
Genre : Fresh woods
Concentration : eau de parfum
Do you remember the advice teachers gave you when answering a quiz? Do the easy questions first! So… let’s get Chyprissime’s genre out of the way right off the bat. This is not a chypre… not by a long shot. It’s from the woods genre. It’s not even chypre-ish!
You know… before I had my own bottle of Chypre by Coty, I had trouble with the chypre genre because the chypre family is so varied, it’s difficult for beginners to pick out. I used to go by elimination. When it wasn’t citrus or floral or leather or amber or fougère or wood… then it was a chypre. But this one pretty well shouted woods to me the minute I sprayed it on my skin and it never waivered.
I’m not going to say much about this one because I didn’t find it very interesting. Yes, it’s somewhat smoky. Yes, it borrows a powdery facet (slight mind you) from the chypre genre and, yes there is a menthol or eucalyptus note in there to keep it fresher than fresh… but all-in-all, it’s a somewhat boring, two-dimensional masculine woods scent… nothing to write home about. There are literally dozens of woods that are more interesting and so I’ll name just a few… Guerlain’s Vetiver, Chanel’s Sycomore, Creed’s Royal Oud and L’Artisan’s Parfumeur’s Premier Figuier.
I’m slightly to blame for this mediocre review because my hopes were probably too high. Buoyed by my review of Supra Floral which gives Chamade a run for its money, I was expecting an old-school, broad-shouldered feminine chypre. Maybe even a leather chypre! Alas, no!
So… we move on. Have a nice week everyone.
Addendum (August 10, 2014) : I just smelled Chyprissime on FiveoaksBouquet and I was totally taken aback… spices, patchouli, vetiver, some smoke… definitely a powerhouse and, yes, a chypre on her. On my skin, it went all woods. So… test this one. I’m wondering if quantity might also make a difference in addition to skin type. I remember now testing it from the store bottle a couple of times but I probably only sprayed once or twice.
Addendum (August 16, 2014) : Because Chyprissime smelled so wonderful on a friend, I decided to go back and retest it twice this past week. I thought that perhaps I had originally picked up the wrong bottle (you see, the bottles are not identified)… or that maybe there was something there that I didn’t pick up the first time. It was definitely the right bottle but after two more testings, it still didn’t come off as a chypre on my skin… more of a dark, patchouli-laced smoky wood. That said, it’s quite wonderful… great longevity and it has a sublime smoldering quality about it that I loved. So… this is the kind that you really have to try and judge on its merits but just don’t be surprised if you’re not getting the chypre accord either.
The Perfume Chronicles 