Jeroboam : Hauto


Poster (1896) by Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec

Created by : Vanina Muracciole

Date : 2015

Genre : Fruity tuberose

Concentration : extrait de parfum

From the Jeroboam website :

During the Roaring Twenties, French Cancan dancers in the celebrated cabarets of Paris had their own very specific perfume rituals. It is said that they perfumed “every hill and valley” — wherever they wanted to be kissed. Hauto (“skin”) is an invitation to experience the fragrance of “skin”.

Top notes : Bergamot, pineapple

Middle notes : Tuberose, rose, spices

Base notes : Enigmatic musks

Well… although the marketing hype is a little, shall we say, overreaching, they certainly got the notes right.   When my friend, FiveoaksBouquet, handed me the scent strip with a little smile and said, “tuberose”, she was spot on!   And, WHAT a tuberose it is!  Jeroboam’s perfumer, Vanina Muracciole, infused a juicy, mouth-watering pineapple note into the fragrance giving tuberose a whole new dimension.  In fact, if the lovely, white tuberose flower was a fruit, it would smell like this!

Now, many tuberoses are as dry as the Sinai!  To my nose, Fracas is dry.  So is Madonna’s Truth or Dare.  So if you’ve tried these tuberoses and you don’t think that tuberose is for you, then try Hauto.  It’s a gamechanger, as they say.

As for throw and longevity, I would say it is timid on throw… it doesn’t seem to radiate very far making it perfect for the office.  Longevity?  As the day is long!  It lasted all day on me and into the next morning.  As for sillage, excellent.


Tuberose flower

My only criticism is the spray bottle.  Hauto is sold as an “extrait” and for that matter, it should be sold in a perfume bottle with a stopper so you can control where and how much you want on.  Hauto is very concentrated and powerful… I would think a drop on each wrist, behind the ears and for women, in the cleavage, would be just ideal.  But, if you go easy on the atomizer, it should be OK.   In fact, it’s a great value.  A 30 ml. bottle should last many, many months if not years.  A woman at the office sprays Givenchy’s Amarige, another big tuberose, on her wonderful, multi-coloured scarves.  Following her into an elevator or down the hall, is like a walk through a flower garden!

So… although I said I would never buy another tuberose again, well… this one was too juicy to pass up.  In Montréal, you can pick up Hauto and other Jeroboam perfumes at Henriette L.



Badgley Mischka : Badgley Mischka

Created by : Richard Herpin

Date : 2006

Genre : Fruity chypre

Concentration : eau de parfum

My dad’s favourite Hollywood star was Rita Hayworth.  He thought that she was incredibly beautiful and sexy and I hadn’t thought of her in a very long time… until this evening when I got a whiff of Badgley Mischka.  Subconsciously, my brain was searching for an image to go with this classy perfume made with “trashy”, fruity notes and Rita with her dyed-red hair came to mind.  You see, I don’t think of classy when I smell fruity topnotes but this one… well, it’s different.

Badgley Mischka is correctly classified as a fruity chypre with its fruit cocktail heart made up of classy mango and trashy raspberry (and other fruits undoubtedly) layered over a subtle chypre base… so very different than Paco Rabanne’s fizzy, hotel brunch mimosa concoction, Lady Million.  But Badgley Mischka is more complex, more “evening” with a slightly powdery note which is more like a matte finish on paint (or makeup) than an all-out, in-your-face powdery facet.  It’s beautiful and fun to wear.

My only problem with this one is that it has no moving parts.  Being so heavily fruity, it’s undoubtedly mostly synthetic and so… it doesn’t evolve over time.  It pretty well ends where it starts.  So…  it’s both topless and bottomless.  Unless you are a nose, it’s hard to smell any movement but the fruit accord is so gorgeous well… I’m recommending it anyway.

To resume, Badgley Mischka is an intense, fruity chypre with a matte finish.  I wore it many times when I bought it two years ago.  When I put it on skin this week to review it, I fell in love all over again.

If you want to wear something in this genre that won’t remind you of your daughter’s Hawaiian Punch-inspired fragrance, try this one.

Have a nice weekend everyone!

Addendum March 4th – After a comment by Meg over at parfümieren about wearing Badgley Mischka with a hibiscus “tucked behind the ear”, it brought back memories of Dorothy Lamour.  By the way, I’m at the library supposedly working on my tell-all book when I started reading Meg’s blog and 2 hours later, I’m still reading.  Meg is a wonderful writer and she lives in the most divine parallel universe where she picks up vintage bottles of Paris by Coty and Givenchy’s L’Interdit for a song… not even… a refrain!  It’s a great blog to read.

And, here is the sarong lady herself… Dorothy Lamour.

Top image : Glamour shot of Rita Hayworth (1918-1987)

Bottom image : Dorothy Lamour

Paco Rabanne : Lady Million

Created by :  Anne Flipo, Beatrice Piquet and Dominique Ropion

Date : 2010

Genre : Fruity floral

Concentration : eau de parfum

I’ll admit upfront that I have never been a fan of Paco Rabanne as a dressmaker.  All those metallic and plastic dresses never looked very appealing.   His legacy in fashion is ensured but his impact on fashion is very debatable.

As for his recent foray into perfume creation with Lady Million, I don’t think there will be much debate.  One thing that we can all agree on outright is that very little money went into its research.  There’s nothing new here.  Lady Million is based on a popular theme… the fruity floral.  And even less money is going into its production.

I’ll admit that the top notes were fun with their orange, fizzy blast that reminded me of those champagne and orange drinks called mimosas which they give you at fancy hotel brunches.  But the fireworks didn’t last very long and the raspberry-centric fruity concoction which followed was right out of a Hawaiian Punch drink.  That part of it I found loathsome and if it wasn’t for the odd but enticing tobacco subnote, I wouldn’t have given this one much more than a passing sniff.

Unbelievably there are no less than 3 experienced and successful perfumers behind Lady Million.. and I’ll credit them for adding the tobacco note.  But it wasn’t enough for me to give it a passing grade.  As for the fruity floral heart, the floral notes could be heard only faintly in addition to a honey note… “honey” being a euphemism for sickly sweet.  The drydown is a synthetic white floral accord of jasmine and gardenia… I think.  Several bloggers list patchouli in this one… but I don’t detect it.

I suspect that Lady Million’s target audience is between 16 and 17 years old.  Little Tiffany has just graduated from high school and her Jessica Simpson fragrance isn’t woman enough.  Now she is looking to scale up to a couture fragrance.  While at Sephora, she looks around… Paris Hilton perfumes are for girls, the latest Guerlain is too difficult to pronounce and Chanel perfumes are too Samantha Jones.  Lady Million’s “gold” diamond-shaped bottle and pretentious name are enough to have her spray her arm and pull out her credit card.

In short, Lady Million is about as subtle and as classy (or not) as a Paco Rabanne dress.

If you’re over 18 (or male), my advice is to pass on this one unless you’re looking to channel your inner Carmen Miranda and your tutti-frutti hat is at the cleaners.


Top image : Poster from Carmen Miranda’s biography “Bananas is my Business” (1995)

Bottom image : Paco Rabanne haute couture dress

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