In 2016, can we agree not to use the word “passion”?

Passion

Has anyone noticed that unless one has a passion these days, it’s like there is something wrong with you.  It’s as if one MUST have a passion.  I blame the media for this… the talk shows, the celebrity interviews and Facebook. In my books, not having a passion is just fine.

When I give my perfume lectures, often someone will walk up to me at the end of my talk, extend their hand and say, “You’re so lucky… you have found your passion!” Actually, my interest in perfume has evolved in the past 10 years.   It started as an obsession, I’ll give you that.  But it quickly became an intellectual pursuit.  I’m reminded of something Denyse Beaulieu of Grain de musc said in an interview and I’m paraphrasing, “writing perfume reviews looks hard, so let’s do this”.  I felt the same way and I still find them difficult but rewarding when I feel that I have done them well.

In many respects, passion is over-rated.  If everyone ran off and followed their passion, life as we know would cease to exist.  Our world is based on people doing, for the most part, monotonous, repetitive jobs to the best of their abilities.  If all the factory workers around the world decided to become artists or actors or poets, good luck trying to manufacture an iPad!

I don’t think perfume was ever a passion.  I’m enthusiastic about it in that I’m always enthusiastic and optimistic about the future.  I find it difficult to look back and think to myself that my best years are behind me.  I can’t live like that.  I’m still hoping to fall in love.  I’m still hoping to meet that sexual bomb that makes all past lovers look like amateurs.  I’m still hoping to write my memoirs.  I’m still hoping to live a hermit’s life in a log cabin in the woods with central heating, 4 cats, high-speed Internet, a large-screen tv with a massive collection of vintage films, and great restaurants nearby that deliver!  And… I’m still hoping to discover perfumes that are so beautifully put together and with such great-quality materials that they make me want to wear them over and over again as I live my wonderful, perfect life.

I guess I’m moving through what I refer to as the transition week.  Christmas DOES always make me look back with a certain longing but as the week progresses, I get over my nostalgic funk and I start to look forward with hope and optimism.

Happy New Year everyone!

janus

A statue of Janus, the God of beginnings and transitions.

Elizabeth Taylor : White Diamonds

White diamonds

Created by : Carlos Benaïm

Date : 1991

Genre : Glamorous white floral

Concentration : eau de toilette

Diana Vreeland once said, “I loathe nostalgia.  I don’t believe in anything before penicillin!”.  I know exactly how she feels.  As I get older, thinking of the good ol’ days seems so pointless!  As with life’s regrets, better to leave the past where it belongs… in the past.  As Ingrid Bergman said, “Happiness is good health and a bad memory.”

But I think even the least romantic of us can be pulled back into nostalgia every now and then… usually when we least suspect it.  And so when I saw the photo of Elizabeth Taylor on the cover of the White Diamonds’ gift set… something pulled at my heartstrings. It brought me back to younger days and late-night movies and talk shows. You know with all the talk of Cate and Angelina and Beyoncé channelling old Hollywood glamour… they never really get close to the original goddesses of the time… and Elizabeth Taylor was certainly at the top of that list or darn near it.

The creator of White Diamonds is Carlos Benaïm who also created Ralph Lauren Polo, Calvin Klein Eternity for Men and Frédéric Malle Eau de Magnolia.   No doubt about it, Carlos knows his stuff!  So when in 1991 he set out to capture old Hollywood glamour with White Diamonds, he hit the bull’s-eye!  White Diamonds is a creamy-rich, elegant white floral with a woody base that could easily be marketed by a prestigious French house at twice the price.  This fragrance is beautifully constructed… no jagged edges, not a shrill note to be heard.

According to Fragrantica, White Diamond’s composition is as follows :

The top notes are aldehydes, bergamot, neroli, orange and lily. The heart unites the classical trio, violet, rose and jasmine, accompanied by ylang-ylang, Egyptian tuberose and narcissus. The base is composed of oak moss, patchouli, musk, sandalwood and amber.

As you can see all the usual suspects are there but you’d be hard-pressed to pick out any individual note… at least I was, particularly in the heart.  The overall effect is symphonic.

The only problem I see with White Diamonds is one of perception.  Because it’s a celebrity perfume, one automatically assumes that it will be badly made and leave you with a chemical stink bomb after all the lovely notes have evaporated.  Not so.  This one is gorgeous from beginning to end.  Don’t let the blingy packaging and discount price fool you.  For added sillage, I’ve been putting a drop of the parfum on my wrist preceded by Chanel’s ultra-expensivo Crème pour le Corps from their Les Exclusifs collection. Together, they’re sublime. If you had told me the combination was the latest Lauder fragrance, I would believe you.  Serge Lutens?  No, because White Diamonds is better than any Lutens floral.  Guerlain?  Probably not because the genre is off. Tom Ford?  Yes. Chanel?  I don’t know.

If you see this package at the store, buy it and enjoy.

Constance, Countess of Trentham : Difficult colour, green… very tricky.

Maggie Smith in Gosford Park

Maggie Smith as the Countess in Gosford Park

One of the funniest lines in Gosford Park (2001) was unscripted.  And who else but Maggie Smith could come up with such a line and deliver it in such a way that would leave the wearer wondering if she had just been given a compliment or the rudest of insults!  So when Claudie Blakley as Mabel Nesbitt arrived on set in a green dress, Maggie instinctively said, “Difficult colour, green… very tricky” and the associate producer, Julian Fellowes, burst out laughing.  They decided to keep the line.

I would say that green perfumes are also difficult, if not tricky.  On my skin they come off very chemical.  And, even a hint of green is sometimes rough as in Chanel No. 19 with that poisonous galbanum opening.  Judging by Michael Edwards’ green family of his Fragrances of the World 2012, it certainly is one of the smallest families… so I assume that they are not that popular either.

Of those that I have tried, I think Sisley’s Eau de Campagne is wonderful, but expensive. Chanel’s Bel Respiro is also lovely, also expensive. I’ve tried Devin by Aramis a couple of times.  Not expensive, but not great either and almost no lasting power.  On me, it smells too soapy.

It seems that to enjoy a really good green scent, you have to break the bank.  And then again, maybe not entirely.

I recently tried Eau de Céleri by Montreal-based Monsillage and I was delighted.  It recently won the Artisan Category of the 2015 Art and Olfaction Awards.  I’ll get back with a full review shortly.  In the meantime, if you know of any green scents that work for you, I’d love to hear about them.

Enjoy!

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