Estée Lauder : White Linen


Created by : Sophia Grojsman

Date : 1978

Genre : Aldehydic floral

Concentration : eau de parfum

I went to the store and tried White Linen several times before I decided to buy it.  I found White Linen very hard to love, even like, at first sniff.  Eventually, I purchased a bottle because I needed an example of an overly aldehydic floral for a perfume conference I was giving.  On a scent strip White Linen repelled me, particularly during the first 30 minutes, but when I wore it to the office the following day, I liked it.

My previous Estée Lauder purchase was the sublime Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia and so the bar was very high but I found that as an everyday fragrance, White Linen is perfect if you like soapy white florals sparkling with aldehydes.  To describe what aldehydes do to a perfume, Jacques Polge, Chanel’s nose, describes it best… “les aldéhydes concourent à brouiller les pistes.”  In English, aldehydes blur the notes which is why Chanel No. 5, although made up of rose, jasmine and ylang-ylang smells like no one particular flower.  In the case of White Linen, with its overdose of aldehydes, the floral notes of rose, jasmine, lilac, orris, lily of the valley and ylang-ylang are totally unrecognizable… but you do get an impression of a blurred white floral bouquet.

In addition, you get a big white soapy note, Ivory soap to be exact, which lasts throughout the day… up until the laundry musk drydown.  This is not my favourite finale but White Linen’s musk is not too bad… however check out Dane’s review from Peredepierre for a different take on the drydown.  There may be something that I’m missing.

You know… I can’t help but be impressed with Estée Lauder’s mission to provide women and men with luxurious perfume at everyday prices which would explain why Estée Lauder is over-represented in my collection.  I think White Linen would be particularly fun during the summer and I see no reason why men can’t wear it… especially with that ultra-clean Ivory note… which if you believe the early advertisements, is great for depression.

This one may be not be in my current top ten… but I bet it moves up as the days get longer and the weather warms up.  Try this one.  At this price, it would be a shame to miss out… just don’t judge it on the first 30 minutes.

 

Top image : Anna Pavlova in The Dying Swan (1905)

Bottom image : Vintage advertisement for Ivory Soap

Yves Saint Laurent : Paris


Created by : Sophia Grojsman

Date : 1983

Genre : Neurotic floral

Concentration : eau de toilette

When a drunken man chased Sophia Grojsman on her way home from work, she knew she had a hit on her hands.  You see… Ms. Grojsman was wearing her latest working version of Paris and as she tells the story, when she started to run… the drunk ran right after her.  Finally, he yelled out, “Please don’t run.  I like this perfume!”  And so we can thank (or blame)  an unknown drunk for this bombastic interpretation of a BIG violet and rose bouquet.

On a side note, the word “viola” or violet comes from the priestess Io who was seduced by Jupiter and was turned into a heifer by Jupiter’s jealous wife, Juno.  There Io remained and fed on a field of violets until she was driven to Egypt by an annoying gadfly… ouch!

The brief for Paris was nothing more than a swatch of pink fabric that Yves Saint Laurent gave to his marketing director, Chantal Roos, and the name… Paris.  The project eventually landed on Ms. Grojsman’s desk at  International Flavours and Fragrances in New York City.  The young perfumer had been playing around with rose scents and she was certain that she could make a financial and artistic success of a rose perfume, which had rarely been done, if she could re-interpret Guerlain’s melancholic Après l’Ondée as a “lighter, airier, younger” rose.  She succeeded but, to be honest, Paris is not rose… it’s violet.

If you don’t know what violet smells like that’s because violet perfumes today are rare, the last really big one being Balenciaga’s Le Dix in 1947.  As for the flower… of all the violets only the Viola Odorata (aka the Sweet Violet or the English Violet) is fragrant.  Most violets, including African violets, have no scent at all.  So… what does a violet note smell like?  Well… it’s powdery, a little sweet and decidedly sad.  Musically, a violet note in perfume would be a minor chord. 

Is there any rose in Paris?  Oh yes.  But it only makes Paris feel bipolar… melancholic violet mixed in with optimistic rose… interesting, vibrant and loud, no doubt due to the strong dose of aldehydes.  Even sprayed on sparingly, this one makes its presence known.

In Europe, Paris was marketed on the imagery of the city of Paris but in the United States they pushed the rose facet, which proved to be a mistake.  Most American women pre-judged the perfume and it wasn’t the financial success that it might have been.

 

Top image : Jupiter and Io (detail, c. 1531) by Antonio Allegri da Correggio

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