Hermès : 24 Faubourg


Created by : Maurice Roucel

Date : 1995

Genre : White floral

Concentration : eau de toilette

24 Faubourg was not of its time when it was created by Maurice Roucel.  It speaks directly to mid-century symphonic forals like Nina Ricci’s L’Air du Temps (1948) and Diorissimo (1956).   When I wear it, I just get this Grace Kelly image that is unshakable.  Although it came out in the 90s, 24 Faubourg has a pre-sexual revolution, “ladies who lunch”  feel to it.

Now, if you like orange-blossom-jasmine accords, you might like this one.  Its opening is beautiful and although it’s not an amber, it has an ambery feel to it… some sweet note that helps fill in its angular composition.  I have the eau de toilette but I noticed at the perfume counter that the eau de parfum with its iris note is much superior and in fact, almost smells like a different perfume.  If you like this genre, do yourself a favour and test the eau de parfum… it will be worth the extra dollars.

Luca Turin blames 24 Faubourg’s shortcomings on its overly-synthetic make-up and I’m inclined to agree.  It just feels like it’s missing flesh.  Again, if you want to try it, go for the edp with its iris note which makes it feel richer.  The eau de toilette smells thin and sometimes sounds shrill.

While testing 24 Faubourg, I put it up against Serge Lutens Fleurs d’oranger and it started out twice as beautiful but at times during the test, I actually preferred Fleurs d’oranger… and I’m not a fan of FdO.  But the ending belongs to 24 Faubourg because of a clean soapy note, which I loved.

I have a feeling that 24 Faubourg might have been tampered with… you know when you see something that you just KNOW must have been spectacular during its time but now is neglected and sad.  Havana comes to mind.  That’s the impression I get with this one.

24 Faubourg comes close… but no Cohiba.

DISCLAIMER : I’m not an orange blossom kind of guy.  And so… I don’t want to be overly critical and I would encourage anyone looking for a white floral to give 24 Faubourg a chance.  It might appeal to you.

 

 

Top image : Grace Kelly wedding photo (1956)

Bottom image : Havana staircase

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