Mugler : Aura

Created by : Daphne Bugey, Amandine Clerc-Marie, Christophe Raynaud, Marie Salamagne

Date : 2017

Genre : Infragreen floral

Concentration : eau de parfum

Do you remember your physics course back in college… particularly the one that dealt with optics?   You do?  Actually, I don’t.  But somehow I remembered the words infrared and ultraviolet and both were terms that refer to a form of light that we can’t see with human eyes.


So… what is the connection with Aura?  I think if Aura was a colour, it would be infragreen.  You see, Aura has a “supra” green vibe to it notably through the notes, rhubarb leaf coupled with wintergreen, which some people describe as medicinal.  At first, it’s a little jarring but it’s not THAT different from the indolic note that we find (and love) in so many jasmine perfumes.  Yes… wintergreen gives you that camphorous vibe but I got used to it easily enough.

But, Aura is odd.  It’s from a parallel universe, hence the infragreen reference.  It’s not easy to love.  I wore it for 4 days over a 2-week period and I kept wanting to love it but I couldn’t… it’s very standoffish… cool, distant, aloof.   If I was dating someone and I was hoping to take it to the next level, I wouldn’t wear Aura.  If I wanted to make an impression at work… I might wear it but I would wear it very sparingly.


Although I may never buy a bottle, I’m extremely happy that an important house like Mugler is putting money and brainpower into innovation.  If we had to rely on Guerlain (think, Mon Guerlain) or Chanel (I’m looking at you, Gabrielle) we’d all be wearing  the same old perfumes until the cows came home!  If nothing else Aura is a forward-thinking, push into new territory.  Other bloggers have referred to it as a pillar and so I’m wondering what the Mugler people will do with it.  No doubt they are looking for a new accord on which to build.  Perhaps they will add patchouli notes… or oud… or leather!

I think everyone who loves perfume should run out and try Aura, particularly if you are a fan of green florals (Mugler lists orange blossom as a heartnote).  Yes, it’s from another planet but you just might like it.

P.S. The first time I saw the bottle of Aura I thought “how beautiful”… but I also thought of the great Belgian surrealist, René Magritte.  I was half expecting the tagline to say, “Ceci n’est pas un coeur.”  I mean, a green heart.  It just seems so surreal!

Back next week… so until then, enjoy!


The Treachery of Images (1929) by René Magritte


Guerlain : Aqua Allegoria Mandarine Basilic

Created by : Marie Salamagne

Date : 2007

Genre : Herbal citrus

Concentration : eau de toilette

Disclaimer : I am not a big fan of overly herbal scents.

For all that has been said of Jean-Claude Ellena’s lovely Jardin series for Hermès, not enough has been said of the simple but elegant Aqua Allegoria series by Guerlain.  Although none are groundbreaking, I have found them all very wearable except for maybe one or two, Lys Soleia comes to mind.  Take Mandarine Basilic for example.  It’s a simple duet of orange and basil… it lasts for several hours and on a hot summer day, it would make a perfect eau de cologne.

The orange note of Mandarine Basilic makes my mouth water.  And with that herbal backnote, well… it’s wonderful.  It’s the kind of perfume I would bring on my next trip to Cuba (hopefully in 2013).  I suspect it’s synthetic which means it should hold up well in the Havana heat and humidity.  My only very petty criticism of Mandarine Basilic is that the orange note wears out before the herbal ones and you’re left smelling of a pungent herbal mixture.  If you like that, then Mandarine Basilic is for you.  It’s just not my thing.  But if you’re looking for an orange-centric, well-behaved eau de toilette… the orange-herbal duet goes on for easily 4 to 5 hours.  After that… it reminds me of a thin-crust neapolitan pizza which I love to eat… but not necessarily wear.

Let’s end this one with one of the most beautiful duets… ever!  True Love by Bing Crosby and Grace Kelly.  What I wouldn’t give to be able to kiss, sail a boat and play the accordeon all at the same time.

Have a nice week everyone.

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