Twilly d’Hermès versus Woman by Ralph Lauren versus Gucci Bloom

Twilly d’Hermès

Created by : Christine Nagel

Date : 2017

Genre : Juicy then dry tuberose accord

Concentration : eau de parfum

Woman by Ralph Lauren

Created by : Ralph Lauren

Date : 2017

Genre : Fruity tuberose accord

Concentration : eau de parfum

Gucci Bloom

Created by : Alberto Morillas

Date : 2017

Genre : Tuberose (soliflore)

Concentration : eau de parfum

So… here we have 3 new fragrances for women based on tuberose, all launched in the spring/summer of 2017 and first coming out in the eau de parfum concentration.

Let’s talk about Twilly d’Hermès and Woman by Ralph Lauren first.  In technical terms, this is tuberose-ish versus tuberose-ish.  Both fragrances have tuberose in them but neither are soliflores… they’re both built around a tuberose accord.

Right out of the starting gate, both fragrances are similar in that both were designed to have you reaching for your credit card faster than Harvey Weinstein can make a move on a Hollywood starlet (allegedly, of course).  Initially both fragrances are mouth-watering with Twilly giving me a wet, juicy vibe well as Woman has a definite fruity vibe.  A couple of colleagues and I argued over whether the fruits were mangos or berries or peaches but, basically we were all right.  Woman’s top notes are a collection of fruity notes which lasted all of 10 minutes, at most.

Although Hermès tends not to publish notes, their website does list “striking ginger and sensual tuberose”.  I’m not so sure about the ginger but if this IS ginger, then it’s well camouflaged.

Into the heart, both project a tuberose-centric accord with the Hermès definitely drying out and giving off  parched powdery  notes and something edible.  Maybe it’s the ginger but I’m not sure.  Hermès lists sandalwood as a basenote.

Woman has no powdery veil over it but I’m definitely getting a cedar note.  In this case, the cedar is subtle but once I got the pencil shavings image in my head, it was hard to get rid of it.  One thing about Woman that I like is that the composition remains juicy and wet.

Which one would I recommend?  Well, both.  They are both well-made and easy to wear and long-lasting.  Just make sure you test them out first because, as with tuberose fragrances, they’re not for everyone .  As for me, I’m out of luck here because I don’t like powdery notes nor cedar so, for my tuberose fix, I’ll stick my with my Truth or Dare by Madonna or one of the easiest tuberoses to wear, Histoires de Parfums’ Tubéreuse 2 Virginale.

As for Gucci Bloom, it was Karine, a reader, who corrected me last week in a comment.  I referred to it as “tuberose-centric” which it is not.  Bloom is definitely a soliflore… a pretty, straight-up tuberose which I would consider buying if I didn’t have so many.

And, as for comparisons, let’s end this post with one of the most interesting comparisons of them all.. three statues of David by three masters, Donatello, Michelangelo and Bernini.  Which one is your favourite?

Enjoy!

three-davids

Estée Lauder : Pleasures

Date : 1995

Genre : Green floral

Concentration : eau de toilette

Although minimalism in perfume is generally associated with Jean-Claude Elléna, just about every modern perfumer has used it as a strategy at some time or other.  Take Pleasures by Estée Lauder.  It must be one of the most minimalist compositions in my collection.  It’s a green scent with a transparent floral base and that’s about it.  I’m not getting anything more complex or layered than that.  In other reviews, I’ve seen listed just about every flower in the garden but I don’t discuss notes unless I smell them and I’m not getting anything specific.  There is a floral aspect to this fragrance… but which flowers exactly, is not obvious to me.

If you love green scents, you might like it but don’t expect it to develop over time.  It goes on green and stays green.  When I wear Pleasures, at one point during the day I want to shout out like the stage manager does to Natalie Wood as Gypsy Rose Lee during her first strip performance, “Take somethin’ off!”  Or, put something on.  Or, do something!

Although we can all thank Pleasures for moving perfume forward and pushing aside the Amazons of the 80s like Poison and Paris and the even more bombastic Amarige (1991), today I find it hard to appreciate its two-dimensional structure.  It’s like a Mondrian.  It’s beautiful, balanced and colourful and although it grabs my attention it doesn’t hold on to it for very long.

Still, Pleasures is a pleasant fragrance that easily gets me compliments from women at the office (hence, great sillage).  But I just find it fairly flat and after a couple of hours, I’m completely bored with it.

Image : Composition with Red, Blue and Yellow (1930) by Piet Mondrian

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