Created by : Henri Alméras originally, but this version unknown
Date : 1930
Genre : Iconic floral
Concentration : eau de toilette
Angela from Now Smell This described Joy eau de toilette like this…
The Eau de Toilette starts with a fizzy, stemmy neroli, then a few minutes later bursts into roses tangled with full-bodied but fresh jasmine. The Eau de Toilette stays close to the skin once it dries down and fades into dull roses and a vague warmth after a few hours. But overall, Joy Eau de Toilette feels bright and, well, joyous.
And that is EXACTLY how I felt about Joy when Angela wrote that review… back in 2008. I remember I was at a luxury department store here in Montreal when the Jean Patou sales associate had me try it. It was really, really beautiful! Just two distinct, quality notes… jasmine and rose. It was something to behold. I hope I never forget it. Unfortunately, I had already bust my perfume budget for that month so I left the bottle on the counter. Less than 6 months later when I went back, the SA told me that they had “distribution problems” and all the Jean Patou perfumes had been sent back and the line was discontinued at the store. Not long after, I read about the 43rd amendment of IFRA (2009) that restricted jasmine grandiflorum absolute to .7% of the finished product and jasmine sambac absolute to 4%. Then it seemed that Joy, in all its forms, simply disappeared off everyone’s shelves! I swear It was like a science fiction movie!
Moving forward, a discount perfume store called me a couple of weeks ago to inform me that they had received a bottle. I literally RAN to the store to pick it up. Unfortunately, I should have run in the opposite direction. This version of Joy smells horribly synthetic and muddled… no space between the notes, no hint of a jasmine-rose duet. It smells like cheap, detergent-grade jasmine… no rose oil, a dollop of aldehydes and a mashup of non-descript “floral” notes.
As for lasting power, Joy edt has it in spades which in this case, is NOT a good thing. It hurts me to write these words, but my bottle of Joy smells… dreadful!
If anyone out there has a great smelling, recently-purchased Joy edt, I’d LOVE to hear about it! I’m hoping that it’s just my bottle that has gone wrong.
Let’s end this post with the jasmine and rose duet of all-time to remember what Joy was like…
ADDENDUM (added August 6th, 2013)
Perfume friend FiveoaksBouquet sent me this interview with Patou perfumer Thomas Fontaine that gives me some hope that Joy might be restored to its former glory. You see, Joy was once produced in the UK and it is now produced in France. My bottle was produced in the UK so I have the version BEFORE Thomas Fontaine got involved to restore the brand. Let’s keep our fingers crossed!
Thomas Fontaine: First of all, the Big Three of Jean Patou— Sublime, 1000 and Joy—are on the market now. And when I arrived at Jean Patou, they were my first job—to organize the new production of them. During the Procter & Gamble period, everything was produced in the United Kingdom, and now it has come back to France. The concentrate is made in Grasse again, the glass is coming from Verreries Brosse, Normandy and the bottles are also filled in Normandy. In P&G times the sources did not fit the brand image, so we changed the sourcing also, and now the concentrate is more expensive but the quality of it is much higher. That was my duty: to restore the previous quality of Jean Patou perfumes.