Created by : Edmond Roudnitska
Date : 1972
Genre : Floral (jasmine) wood
Concentration : eau de toilette
I often refer to Diorella as the feminine Eau Sauvage because in the literature that is how it is presented. But when recently rereading Michael Edwards’ Perfume Legends : French Feminine Fragrances, I was surprised to read the following passage :
Diorella has been called a feminine Eau Sauvage, but Roudnitska disagrees. “Diorella was not inspired by Eau Sauvage,” he claims. “I worked with a different formula. Like Eau Sauvage, Diorella has a touch of chypre, but apart from that, it has absolutely nothing to do with Eau Sauvage. Of course I had made use of the experience I had gained from my earlier work, but if Eau Sauvage was the daughter of Diorissimo (1956), the formal structure of Diorella makes it the granddaughter of Diorissimo, without really being the daughter of Eau Sauvage. Diorella was the transformation of quite another formula.”
I’m not sure I understand the convoluted geneaology, but having tested the latest formulation of Diorella recently I can attest that it is NOT the feminine Eau Sauvage, it is the masculine Eau Sauvage (and consequently, Eau Sauvage is the feminine Diorella). Both start quite similarly but Diorella doesn’t have the citrus flourishes of Eau Sauvage. One could confuse Eau Sauvage with an eau de cologne but never Diorella. More importantly, Diorella’s jasmine heart is denser and although there is the occasional soapy note its voice is in the masculine range.
As for classification, I’m going to disagree with Michael Edwards on this one who puts Diorella in his Citrus family, although I suspect he was working from a preformulated Diorella. For me, it’s more of a floral wood, the floral part supplied by Hedione or jasmine. Both men and women could wear Diorella but I think most women would prefer the lighter, citrusy Eau Sauvage as would most men. It doesn’t surprise me that Eau Sauvage is available everywhere as opposed to Diorella which is a treasure hunt find… still beautiful but after wearing it for a few days, I prefer Eau Sauvage.