Created by : Bernard Chant
Date : 1971
Genre : Green floral chypre
Concentration : Perfume spray
Apart from a lecture given to the British Society of Perfumers, very little information is available on the net regarding the great Bernard Chant but we know that he created some incredible perfumes… Cabochard, Azurée, Aramis and the subject of today’s marvel, Aromatics Elixir.
Michael Edwards places Aromatics Elixir in his Dry Woods family (Chypre Cuir in French) and he gives it a green facet which sounds right. The Société Française des Parfumeurs calls it a floral chypre and I think that could be correct as well. And Luca Turin calls it a woody floral! The problem with classifying Aromatics Elixir is that it’s complex and layered and because of the layers, one can read almost anything into Aromatics Elixir… it just depends on which layer you want to focus on. It reminds me of my first use of a microscope and why the image kept changing as I focused on different layers of the object.
Listed notes are a beautiful rose/patchouli accord along with neroli, jasmine, ylang-ylang, oakmoss, musk, amber, sandalwood and more. The overall effect is a strong, wartime chypre… tailored and woolly… no frou-frou, no chiffon. And not surprisingly, a hint of leather lurks among the green and floral notes. It’s all there. I’m even getting a soapy note which might be from the musk. Describing Aromatics Elixir is almost impossible because it has no clear direction. It really is a symphony of accords which is extremely chic and dated but a hell of a lot of fun to wear! It might feel a little “dress-up” but if you’re looking for effect, Aromatics Elixir might be for you.
My only wish is that Clinique would take a page from Thierry Mugler’s songbook and create a lighter, pared-down version of AE, as Mr. Mugler did with his new Angel eau de toilette. Done correctly, an Aromatics Elixir eau de toilette for daytime (or for men) would be a winner.
On a woman, Aromatics Elixir is all business… no fooling around. On a man, it’s the opposite. He smells clean and dirty all at the same time. I think more than a few women could be seduced. So let’s end with THE photo of 1972… the year that Burt Reynolds decided not to show it.
Have a nice week everyone.
Top image : Jacques Fath suit photographed by Henry Clarke (1955)
Bottom image : Burt Reynolds centrefold for Cosmopolitan (1972)