Hermès : 24 Faubourg


Created by : Maurice Roucel

Date : 1995

Genre : White floral

Concentration : eau de toilette

24 Faubourg was not of its time when it was created by Maurice Roucel.  It speaks directly to mid-century symphonic forals like Nina Ricci’s L’Air du Temps (1948) and Diorissimo (1956).   When I wear it, I just get this Grace Kelly image that is unshakable.  Although it came out in the 90s, 24 Faubourg has a pre-sexual revolution, “ladies who lunch”  feel to it.

Now, if you like orange-blossom-jasmine accords, you might like this one.  Its opening is beautiful and although it’s not an amber, it has an ambery feel to it… some sweet note that helps fill in its angular composition.  I have the eau de toilette but I noticed at the perfume counter that the eau de parfum with its iris note is much superior and in fact, almost smells like a different perfume.  If you like this genre, do yourself a favour and test the eau de parfum… it will be worth the extra dollars.

Luca Turin blames 24 Faubourg’s shortcomings on its overly-synthetic make-up and I’m inclined to agree.  It just feels like it’s missing flesh.  Again, if you want to try it, go for the edp with its iris note which makes it feel richer.  The eau de toilette smells thin and sometimes sounds shrill.

While testing 24 Faubourg, I put it up against Serge Lutens Fleurs d’oranger and it started out twice as beautiful but at times during the test, I actually preferred Fleurs d’oranger… and I’m not a fan of FdO.  But the ending belongs to 24 Faubourg because of a clean soapy note, which I loved.

I have a feeling that 24 Faubourg might have been tampered with… you know when you see something that you just KNOW must have been spectacular during its time but now is neglected and sad.  Havana comes to mind.  That’s the impression I get with this one.

24 Faubourg comes close… but no Cohiba.

DISCLAIMER : I’m not an orange blossom kind of guy.  And so… I don’t want to be overly critical and I would encourage anyone looking for a white floral to give 24 Faubourg a chance.  It might appeal to you.

 

 

Top image : Grace Kelly wedding photo (1956)

Bottom image : Havana staircase

Leave a comment

10 Comments

  1. Well now, it seems we have our first disagreement!😉

    I don’t feel like 24, Faubourg is missing flesh or too synthetic, at least not on my skin which seems to agree with Hermes scents in a lovely way.

    I do see your amber-like association, and agree on that point, though like you would never call this An Amber.

    I like orange blossom and jasmine, as long as neither is too heady or indolic. Maybe that’s why this suits me? This is definitely A Perfume: ladylike and “fancy”. It lasts ages on me and throws far, too. I love it!

    xoxo,
    *jen

    Reply
    • Hi Jen!

      Thanks for writing. I wanted to love 24 Faubourg. I really did! But maybe it’s just me and orange-blossom-jasmine accords. I love their openings but then I just wish they would evolve in another direction and they generally don’t move much. And that’s why in the 11th hour of my post I added the disclaimer. But, if it works on your skin… perfect!

      Thanks again for writing and have a great week!

      xoxo
      Normand

      Reply
  2. I like a pretty orange blossom and jasmine anytime, but the Hermes boutique kind of intimidates me. Maybe they have it at Holts?

    Reply
    • Hermès isn’t found in many places. I bought it at Ogilvy’s… but I know they have it at Holts Montreal as well.

      Reply
  3. Eric

     /  March 14, 2011

    All I can say is that my best friend Marc who is from Texas and speaks with a true Texas Panhandle slow twang pronounces its mame:
    “24-FABU”
    I know how to pronounce 24-Faubourg but I tend to agree with Marc actually🙂
    Eric

    Reply
    • Hi Eric,

      Do you know if he is wearing the edt or the edp?

      Normand

      Reply
      • Eric

         /  March 15, 2011

        Hi Normand,
        I asked him and he wears the EDP.
        As for me, I can’t believe that I missed an opportunity to own a 500 ml limited edition bottle of 24 faubourg EDP that was sold exclusively at Neiman Marcus for 250 USD back around the year 2000.
        It looked like a huge Factice bottle but full of the real EDP!
        Those were the days when you could buy quite a lot for 250 but still, I can’t forgive myself for not buying it.
        Eric

      • Hi Eric,
        Thanks for getting back to me.
        And, I should have bought the EDP instead of the EDT. At the perfume counter, the EDP smelled heavenly. I was just afraid that it was too much perfume for me and I wanted something for me as well as my collection. Live and learn!

        Normand

  4. Unrelated to this review I tried both EDP and EDT again yesterday and unexpectedly liked EDP concentration (previously I tried them several years ago and didn’t care much for either one).

    Reply
    • There is no doubt about it… the edp is better than the edt. It’s amazing what a little iris butter will do.

      Reply

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