Created by : Harry Frémont
Date : 2008
Genre : Rose chypre
Concentration : eau de parfum
I finally got around to wearing David Yurman to the office for a test-run. No doubt its creator, Harry Frémont, was asked to create a perfume that would speak to David Yurman’s well-heeled, elegant crowd. This perfume was not launched to bring in new clients to the David Yurman brand… it was launched to provide his existing clients with a tried-and-true rose chypre formula in a gorgeous bottle. Not alot of money went into its research but it certainly smells like alot of money goes into its production.
The opening is over-the-top luxurious. The topnotes are complex and dark and gorgeous! David Yurman is hard to describe but you know that you are experiencing the work of a master and quality raw materials. The chypre genre may be dead but when it’s done right there is nothing else like it. This is old school perfume… the good kind.
Because this is not a unique fragrance, I decided to test it next to comparable chypres – Knowing by Estée Lauder and Paloma Picasso. If you know these two classics, then you know how David Yurman opens… however it separates itself early on from the other two by dropping the complex chypre accord and presenting a solitary, quality rose note for several hours. My only complaint is that the bitter note which is required in a chypre comes off more sour than bitter and so the sour-rose combination got on my nerves after awhile. As for lasting power… nothing in my collection lasts longer except maybe Jicky or Bel Ami.
If green and rose chypres are twins, then rose chypres are the evil twin. Of David Yurman, Knowing and Paloma Picasso, I would say that David Yurman is the least evil and the most wearable. For instance, it could be worn out to an evening… like to the theater or the opera… but go easy on the atomizer. You’d find it hard to wear the other two in a crowded space.
Chandler Burr of the New York Times says that David Yurman is “a powerful, gold, floral department-store luxury perfume, with the subtlety and style of a Jackie Collins novel”. It’s more subtle than that… but maybe just.
And for those who sent me perfume suggestions for my conference of February 2nd… thank you very much! I’ve got just about everything… 22 perfumes in all… from blindingly spotless White Linen to ultra-skanky Muscs Koublaï Khan… from 1889 Jicky to 2010 Bleu… and from ultra-floral Fracas to ultra-leather Cuir de Russie… the jewels of my collection.
On with the show…
Top image : Margaret Dumont and the Marx brothers in A Night at the Opera (1935)
Bottom image : Photograph from the Ziegfield Follies.